A New Approach to Rusted Bolts?

This weekend I finished the side supports for the body rig. The side supports are rectangular structures about 2 ft high and 6ft long. I initially planned to only have a middle support beam but upon finishing the structure, the supports were a bit wobbly and so I added cross beams to make it structurally sound. I've seen shops balance car bodies on upside down 5 gallon buckets so this wooden body rig should definitely hold up the car body.

I didn't work on the car this weekend, but got a really good tip from a friend of a friend who used to work in an auto restoration shop. After telling him my issues with rusted bolts, he suggested that I either 1) just cut off the bolts or 2) use a MAPP gas torch. For the MAPP gas torch, what they would do in the shop was heat the rusted bolt with the torch and then take a thick wet towel and place it directly on the bolt to cool it off. They would repeat this extreme heating and cooling process twice and the stressing of the metal should break the rust.

I did a little more research online and a MAPP gas torch (versus propane) is used because it burns at a higher temperature. MAPP gas torches are apparently available in any Lowe's and Home Depot, and while I'm at it, I should probably pick up a fire extinguisher.

Almost there... (in removing the body)

I'm always anxiously anticipating the next rusted or stubborn that takes a month to resolve. So I was super grateful when we made some decent progress this weekend. Chris was able to loosen the rusted bottom bolts on the shock absorber unit (shock absorber plus compressed coil spring) and I managed to get all but one of the bolts connecting the body to the chassis removed.

Realization #5346: Almost all the bolts on the Triumph will need to be replaced.
While removing the four bolts that held the shock absorber unit in place, three of the bolts broke off from the rust and a few other bolts were bent. I think only 25% of the shock absorber bolts survived unscathed, but then they too had rust.

The problem with the last body bolt is that rust has adhered the nut to the bolt and just spins the bolt in place as I try to loosen it. There isn't really a spot to hold the bolt still, with the top of the bolt rounded off and not much space on the opposite end. I did find an online video that suggested using a die cutter to notch a line on the top of the bolt so that a flathead screwdriver could be used on the notch to hold the bolt still, but to do this, I will need to invest in a Dremel or cutter tool of some sort - more tools to buy...

Also started this weekend was the body rig for storing the body when we finally get the last bolt off. It's really nice working with wood instead of rusted metal for a change as efforts were instantly gratified. Most of the pieces for the body frame are cut out and just need to be screwed in place. Then I can attach the free wheels I had picked up at the dump so that the body rig can roll in and out of the garage.

A bit on a tanget, I started watching MuscleCar on Spike TV and find the show to be really informative. They have a segment called "Budget Build" where they demonstrate how you can achieve comparable results but with cheaper, DIY methods for the average non-mechanic. Spike TV online has full episodes with limited commercials. It's a good thing.