tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-66534613727504162052024-03-14T01:24:42.161-07:00Adventures in Restoring a 1968 Triumph SpitfireThis blog follows my trials and errors in restoring a 1968 Triumph Spitfire, starting with a limited knowledge of cars. Hopefully, I'll be a pro by the end of this, or at least somewhat competent. ;-)Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger93125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-42535979090652023092022-07-11T07:14:00.008-07:002022-07-11T11:01:08.524-07:00Car Restoration is Humbling<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjJd7Q7qDdJo4AO_sRBXGiSkQ7NuREpjoN6uk_iN3HsiITYuBhD6wVKoTlONkgTorYtIwZW7MdKkI1t8hRxZuYs7mTn2wTT1hXGPtKSQwY7fJNzTLhYYSLvTkvjMJQ4CNwEBXX5zPFWE0XJxkQRj3zUdfUmFgQVV-a-fMq5MfW6uJ-UYIsPvO-dcfkA/s4032/IMG-4412.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjJd7Q7qDdJo4AO_sRBXGiSkQ7NuREpjoN6uk_iN3HsiITYuBhD6wVKoTlONkgTorYtIwZW7MdKkI1t8hRxZuYs7mTn2wTT1hXGPtKSQwY7fJNzTLhYYSLvTkvjMJQ4CNwEBXX5zPFWE0XJxkQRj3zUdfUmFgQVV-a-fMq5MfW6uJ-UYIsPvO-dcfkA/s320/IMG-4412.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>I can finally say I am putting the Triumph back together. It's taken so long to get to this point that I had to stop a moment and take in the view of the Triumph photo on the left for a while to appreciate this step. All the hours of cleaning, wire brushing, fighting rusty components and now I am actually assembling these parts back together.<br /><p>I forgot how humbling it is to work on the Triumph - every time where I think things will be straight-forward or easy, the Triumph usually proves me wrong. I thought re-assembly would be easy except I did not factor that: 1) the powdercoating made holes smaller and fits tighter - in some cases wire brushing off the powdercoating was required, 2) missing bolts/nuts required multiple trips to the local hardware store, then 3) issues with some of the nuts not threading on properly (still not sure what happened here as things did not appear cross threaded, but maybe the new cordless impact wrench I used heated things up and caused issues?) required more trips to the local hardware store for new bolts and nuts. This whole process took me probably 4x longer than I thought it would.</p><p>Eventually, I got to this point. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwPsv-Tehx2hJdBTQ8_QKyW1z1_SyHwu5SRS2WcvGwg5uXz4kviQWz4KhcLZN9-V8Ctlii4nGYs1ZtvOADQaGQb97tHhpgakiRH7q3ZGjmcOrZ6_VTjr_IUoSTC1CFFDnq7mm14Bl_loDN-XH9QGrdnRiCgcF8Fdj7pHc_rZesQPOjfFKxMWqwO-bdA/s4032/IMG-4434.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwPsv-Tehx2hJdBTQ8_QKyW1z1_SyHwu5SRS2WcvGwg5uXz4kviQWz4KhcLZN9-V8Ctlii4nGYs1ZtvOADQaGQb97tHhpgakiRH7q3ZGjmcOrZ6_VTjr_IUoSTC1CFFDnq7mm14Bl_loDN-XH9QGrdnRiCgcF8Fdj7pHc_rZesQPOjfFKxMWqwO-bdA/s320/IMG-4434.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>I was super happy and pleased with myself to get to this point...except... </p><p>The front suspension creaked, likely really creaked - loudly and obnoxiously - when I swung the assemblies up and down. Every movement came with this groaning creaking sound that somehow I ignored or brushed off while installing but could no longer ignore now.</p><p></p><p>I foolishly thought some silicon lubricant spray on all the rotating pieces would do the trick but I barely noticed a difference. After going through Triumph forum threads, I figured out that the new polyurethane bushings were likely to blame for the creaking sounds. To make matters worse, it turns out that I should have but grease on the bushing before I installed them...so the thought of possibly going all the way back to reinstalling bushings bummed me out.</p><p>In the end, it turned out that the creak sounds were caused by areas where the round flat ends of the polyurethane bushing rotated against the powdercoated chassis or powdercoated pivot assemblies. I used white lithium grease (was hoping to use something more heavy duty, but Amazon lost my package and this is what the local hardware store had) and rubbed it on all the surfaces that were causing the creaks. While I was at it, I applied anti-seize to surfaces/contact areas that look suspect to rusting that I should have done the first time but only thought about it halfway through the first go around at this. </p><p>...and now I am back to what is shown in the photo above AND without creaks.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-88373312710383294972022-06-28T10:49:00.002-07:002022-06-28T10:49:43.280-07:008 years, 5 months, and 23 days<p>It's been 8 years, 5 months, and 23 days since I last posted and it's been about 8 years exactly since I last did anything with the Triumph, which was move it to its current location. In the time that has passed, we moved, picked up new hobbies, said goodbye to Great Uncle Fred (who helped us restore the engine), got another dog, put down our other 2 dogs, had our first kid and the Triumph sat in the garage like this while more and more things piled around it.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Zh63pOObazVyNlQ-bCNZaH_lsUbax-djhhUKsiOQEpxZgKSzUOeuDILlFNWChh5wfCViZkR8nQj_FRmaw1OE9HlorQt1x2A5PF5WJmyZFS79Wih876oBtwk4e4D1BiWBI8VVd7_xYcsKYPq5qH-lrYwUnu4e_aF_HAmArxK4cBJVYoWopXiVwxO5nQ/s3264/IMG-4284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Zh63pOObazVyNlQ-bCNZaH_lsUbax-djhhUKsiOQEpxZgKSzUOeuDILlFNWChh5wfCViZkR8nQj_FRmaw1OE9HlorQt1x2A5PF5WJmyZFS79Wih876oBtwk4e4D1BiWBI8VVd7_xYcsKYPq5qH-lrYwUnu4e_aF_HAmArxK4cBJVYoWopXiVwxO5nQ/s320/IMG-4284.jpg" width="296" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Now as we wait for the arrival of our second child, I have been motivated to try and work a bit on the Triumph before we go on another hiatus. (Hopefully not for 8 years this time, but maybe 2 years or so.) <div><br /></div><div>My goal is to get the chassis back to a rolling form by mid-Fall - assembling the front and rear suspension and steering. I think I have found all the components since they were stored everywhere after the move (<i>8 years ago...</i>) and ordered some key items from Moss Motors. Previously, I had ordered from Victoria British and I was sad to see that they had gone away.<div><br /></div><div>Also, I have been impressed by the amount of information available on YouTube now regarding restoration. There are so many good channels with a wealth of information on how to restore cars (Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties, Vortex Garage, Chris Fisher, Rimmer Bros, Eastwood, Upholstery Tips etc.). So I am hopeful that I might be able to pull off this project eventually.</div><div><br /></div><div>That's it for now. Hopefully I'll have an update in the not too distant future.</div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-76861978198301018902014-01-05T19:37:00.004-08:002014-01-05T19:37:36.921-08:00Not the worst...A few months ago, we decided that we would need help with the bodywork and had contacted Pete at Kustom Restoration Specialties (KRS) about doing bodywork on the Triumph. (KRS is located in the same lot where we take our cars to get serviced and Pete's british racing green Triumph TR3 is almost always sitting outside.) Pete kindly offered to drive up to the house to take a look at what we were dealing with. <br />
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He stopped by the house a couple of Sundays ago, in his TR3 of course, and took time to walk over the car with us. He quickly noted what we we knew to be the troubled areas (floor panels, wheel arch areas, etc), but then started pointing out bondo-ed and patched areas we had no idea were present.<br />
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A quick squeeze by Pete on the ledge underneath the passenger door revealed to him that that area had been bondo-ed. (He literally squeezed the panel then tapped on it to figure out that ledge had been bondo-ed and then painted over.) Using a flashlight to inspect the exterior condition from the inside of the car, he also found that the car was likely in an accident where the rear passenger wheel area had been impacted. Further inspection revealed to him that the owner of the car at the time had patched the panel in place using pop rivets (rivet tubes were exposed on the inside of the car).<br />
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Some more tapping, squeezing, and inspecting by Pete revealed to us that the Triumph had way more bondo on it than we thought. One thing Pete pointed out was to look for metal seams along the car. The attachment of body panels at the factory left seams with spot welds that should still be visible under the paint job. However looking at certain areas of the car (rear driver side light area, body area behind the front wheels), the seams that should have been present were not there - the areas were smoothed out - and those places had been bondo-ed over. I asked for Pete's assessment of the body condition and he candidly answered that it was not the worst that he has seen. <br />
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Also, Pete noted that we should have done the bodywork before fixing up the chassis, since the body needs to be on the chassis during bodywork to make sure the two fit/align correctly. It is not the end of the world that we did this, but the chassis will be scuffed up a bit as the body is getting worked on, hence, the order should have been restore body first then chassis.<br />
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So, in the end, not the worst, but it's definitely much worse than originally thought. I will try to post some pictures in the new year after we thaw out a bit from all the snow and cold weather.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-55659651085073647842013-12-30T06:01:00.000-08:002013-12-30T06:01:32.943-08:00Slow Going FallFall came and went with us working infrequently on the Triumph and encountering small enough issues that no progress was made (well, some knowledge was built, but no advancements in Triumph repair were made). <br />
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<i>An example no progress effort:</i><br />
When trying to attach the return pipe to the water pump (already attache don the engine), we realized there was some sequencing of installation required to fit the return pipe to the water pump and therefore had to take off the water pump again. Attempts were made to attach the pipe to the water pump, however the angle of the pipe did not align correctly because a sleeve and adapter fitting that connects the return pipe to the water pump have seized together. We plan to try torching it this part to see if we can get it unstuck, but haven't done so yet.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8RQvk5MZBgH4_9dEiB36As6YjNoHzqrBNLMzMWlFf_mfSA2b1BKqWG_pMgoNag6QK0MFGw9tLcndXGu3JUqnBJYZC6Ay7dMRANEFPVfsvgaPHyYEPW14vNEgts4cxS3ahyKFeTLoGBqQX/s1600/IMG_3980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8RQvk5MZBgH4_9dEiB36As6YjNoHzqrBNLMzMWlFf_mfSA2b1BKqWG_pMgoNag6QK0MFGw9tLcndXGu3JUqnBJYZC6Ay7dMRANEFPVfsvgaPHyYEPW14vNEgts4cxS3ahyKFeTLoGBqQX/s320/IMG_3980.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do not install the water pump without attaching the return pipe to the water pump first. <br />
(Ergo: Do not do what is shown above.)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqbAEwUOerUcXTn5X1nVZmK2vMt1tg_ErnVyhKXBMd7WNG3Y5lmux4eJPeUMUei5huQeb-VodbP4ICoBnYAFz_5Qe6b2PdY-yX3Lh3LN72WYEBLNxT2qxeZg5x4INd5DvplZMr15KsMByz/s1600/IMG_3981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqbAEwUOerUcXTn5X1nVZmK2vMt1tg_ErnVyhKXBMd7WNG3Y5lmux4eJPeUMUei5huQeb-VodbP4ICoBnYAFz_5Qe6b2PdY-yX3Lh3LN72WYEBLNxT2qxeZg5x4INd5DvplZMr15KsMByz/s320/IMG_3981.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The return pipe - notice how the end of it is at the wrong angle when fitted into place</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-89381704481846219562013-08-18T18:37:00.000-07:002013-08-18T18:38:14.162-07:00Cleaning and painting the differentialFinally worked on something other than the engine - the differential. I had previously scrubbed and hosed most of the grease off the differential, so today was spent wire brushing, cleaning with denatured alcohol, and applying a coat of paint.<br />
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Before wire brushing and cleaning:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88oPSx5PGZsqETNoMwI1d3b2YCED-yk2UZDqSWjV6Qwy6Otg0B_r8HctNtuBVUUPM9W78RINozzqWdujsuxing3Dqh29LtmSJnNJxcMsrdFn00Jk6D7LrmZeIzNAQQb8yZ3RqNC2GHLsS/s1600/IMG_1921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88oPSx5PGZsqETNoMwI1d3b2YCED-yk2UZDqSWjV6Qwy6Otg0B_r8HctNtuBVUUPM9W78RINozzqWdujsuxing3Dqh29LtmSJnNJxcMsrdFn00Jk6D7LrmZeIzNAQQb8yZ3RqNC2GHLsS/s320/IMG_1921.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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After:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwqXm_AuEN9MyfmV4WJqU9jXraNW-pb0nE5q37Gm-kAh2rDAAGPi2-BB_TFKoTS5yGR50GGV5Lc44uKxPqGHgETl-zQdtIaVWIEtl5ZbaPdp7rEP1QOeJutrSi7nIq_t60wZnJ22D75xBd/s1600/IMG_1927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwqXm_AuEN9MyfmV4WJqU9jXraNW-pb0nE5q37Gm-kAh2rDAAGPi2-BB_TFKoTS5yGR50GGV5Lc44uKxPqGHgETl-zQdtIaVWIEtl5ZbaPdp7rEP1QOeJutrSi7nIq_t60wZnJ22D75xBd/s320/IMG_1927.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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While working on the differential, some oil had leaked while i tried to clean/paint the underside of the differential. I'll need to look a bit more at this later, but for now, differential painted can be checked off on the list of things to do.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-91213322530404517192013-07-28T04:37:00.000-07:002013-07-28T04:37:03.913-07:00Presenting...the Restored EngineBefore we get to the big reveal, this is what the engine looked like before:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAos7RigFluMvoqlRrRIp_lSwsqzwYwntQsUMdefMV3Kq9WzTtPFF5l00E4a0VVY2eiLlFxbnfwMpxX6MPAtr4Mr6M_Bb5ZBFDXxbFHVkwA1zl0bjV659q9XTSiSbl4ZbIea3utVZPwGz4/s1600/IMG_2085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAos7RigFluMvoqlRrRIp_lSwsqzwYwntQsUMdefMV3Kq9WzTtPFF5l00E4a0VVY2eiLlFxbnfwMpxX6MPAtr4Mr6M_Bb5ZBFDXxbFHVkwA1zl0bjV659q9XTSiSbl4ZbIea3utVZPwGz4/s320/IMG_2085.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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...and from the other side.<br />
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....drum roll please...<br />
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The engine before we attached the intake and exhaust manifolds...<br />
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...with the intake and exhaust manifolds (we painted the water pump after we came back from NY).<br />
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The repainted bell housing of the transmission:<br />
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And last but not least, the engine ready to go back to Massachusetts.<br />
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A huge thank you to Fred for hosting us and helping us through the engine restoration. Without his help, we would probably still be working on the engine for at least a year (or more given my latest track record). <br />
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Also, a thank you to Chris for the free manual labor (he did all the heavy lifting) and allowing me to use his truck to haul an engine and transmission across New York.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-57944980998105501302013-07-23T18:21:00.005-07:002013-07-23T18:21:58.458-07:00Cleaning and Painting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There was a lot of cleaning and painting to be done on this trip - valve cover, transmission bell housing, the engine block, ...</div>
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Below is a picture of some of the parts needing an exterior refresher...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WbJtRl8ZgWjlWC_bGnZuyEifKy5fQ9gg2_CGUXOiK8rEkKuLQbLk14jO8mgfqRc1dypgqM3TiM2D2jKx8LNlWZQQf_UXS0gv1V9BGWd1QYhtcPow4jVoSy9FSN9OQ0t_4h6aR5sEkTQ_/s1600/IMG_2377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WbJtRl8ZgWjlWC_bGnZuyEifKy5fQ9gg2_CGUXOiK8rEkKuLQbLk14jO8mgfqRc1dypgqM3TiM2D2jKx8LNlWZQQf_UXS0gv1V9BGWd1QYhtcPow4jVoSy9FSN9OQ0t_4h6aR5sEkTQ_/s320/IMG_2377.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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Below is what the bell housing looked like before. There was a lot of debris and grease that needed to be wire brushed and kerosene cleaned off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB5jEOKmIv4WZotw8DQ-wfSrszsIovoQrxyVXXcB57yGkf9zwaQirGzL9geE5bcKTmIU-mExA7OJ756pBStZb7IPPInSiQqSCQurl89s_7PMO5WthBY-NM83_iQOCsMpqX3OAhJ5N-zwxd/s1600/IMG_2378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB5jEOKmIv4WZotw8DQ-wfSrszsIovoQrxyVXXcB57yGkf9zwaQirGzL9geE5bcKTmIU-mExA7OJ756pBStZb7IPPInSiQqSCQurl89s_7PMO5WthBY-NM83_iQOCsMpqX3OAhJ5N-zwxd/s320/IMG_2378.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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..and what it looked like after... <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij6twipnijsg34XPO8B7FpL4bwTucBOlHjIfORJtYKY2_tNLIWVoxezzEvIf5YpCHaZwsszqhVqp_ENzkkzAA7Wj0DJVj6hZA9F4iu3eQBJaXghQ5xtKoIZX6JuBhfH8c1n0ZVJX-vPqRd/s1600/IMG_2389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij6twipnijsg34XPO8B7FpL4bwTucBOlHjIfORJtYKY2_tNLIWVoxezzEvIf5YpCHaZwsszqhVqp_ENzkkzAA7Wj0DJVj6hZA9F4iu3eQBJaXghQ5xtKoIZX6JuBhfH8c1n0ZVJX-vPqRd/s320/IMG_2389.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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After a good scrub done of the engine, I masked off parts that should not be painted and used a brush to paint on black, high heat resistant paint. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMwfZns40wDd7Jld_kK6KgudbjzCp3L5nt0wNz-3uhJbZbqSXsrVctrvVxjeJG_09dsa9pF5iEpuwShwG8lHDxQhQeJgA-bm1bfFo30bNlRf7ZTnb08xgLvMWIjpRnIBFVPorB9d13Hqi/s1600/IMG_2393.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMwfZns40wDd7Jld_kK6KgudbjzCp3L5nt0wNz-3uhJbZbqSXsrVctrvVxjeJG_09dsa9pF5iEpuwShwG8lHDxQhQeJgA-bm1bfFo30bNlRf7ZTnb08xgLvMWIjpRnIBFVPorB9d13Hqi/s320/IMG_2393.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Prior to this trip, I had always assumed that you needed to use engine-specific spray paint for the engine block, but after talking to Fred, he had always used generic high heat resistant paint for all his engines and did not have issues. So if it worked for Fred, I figured it will work for me. <br />
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Being able to paint on the paint with a paintbrush meant I did not have to mask off everything, just the edges that were not to be painted (so much easier to prep). The paintbrush can leave slight brush marks, but with the rough, casted surface of the engine block, you cannot see a difference. The only place where this is slightly noticeable is the oil pan and you have to get really close to notice this. <br />
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I think it came out really well, but you'll have to wait until the next post to see for yourself. :-)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-11740541269102332722013-07-17T19:06:00.000-07:002013-07-17T19:07:50.160-07:00Carburetor Cleaning<i>Forward: Learning the following information proved useful a few weeks later as Chris and I found ourselves helping a friend fix up his boat engine during a week long stay at Lake George. Long story short, the engine to his boat was running roughly and stalling at low RPMs. Cleaning up the carburetor fixed this and we saved the vacation (not really, but people were really happy to use the boat during the vacation).</i><br />
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Since the gaskets on the carburetor looked new and thing looked mostly in good condition, we only did a basic cleaning on the carburetor.<br />
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Step 1 - Removing the idle trim screw. Before removing the screw, count how many turns it takes to tighten the screw down to where you just start to feel resistance. In our case, it was 1.5 turns. (This information is used later when installing the screw.) After you get this information, unscrew the screw.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqIwYc2azIvgdH0_bs_ScomXqGIa_ttLabnsf53chD_y2vE4YdBYFAJficRn5o01JhzujGtOu7vkNhTAWrHyNEVT6T2FLAuwwbFQsO1arSAqrvyxOH4cYl7N0lpD2C060ifiv49k0sPxN/s1600/IMG_2384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqIwYc2azIvgdH0_bs_ScomXqGIa_ttLabnsf53chD_y2vE4YdBYFAJficRn5o01JhzujGtOu7vkNhTAWrHyNEVT6T2FLAuwwbFQsO1arSAqrvyxOH4cYl7N0lpD2C060ifiv49k0sPxN/s400/IMG_2384.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjfjOyfKDOtT1pnuoxWcDUuA7Xe-uB7o_elSqZxtnw0B6QQHgFlkumb059c3kbxqxpDYDscV-qBRdXF_QFc_9VFONxyIuXAMCHW5Dqqowg21okIcQOUr1t_H6VGwppNjxtWUZLYfYzlzz/s1600/IMG_2385.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjfjOyfKDOtT1pnuoxWcDUuA7Xe-uB7o_elSqZxtnw0B6QQHgFlkumb059c3kbxqxpDYDscV-qBRdXF_QFc_9VFONxyIuXAMCHW5Dqqowg21okIcQOUr1t_H6VGwppNjxtWUZLYfYzlzz/s400/IMG_2385.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 2 - Clean the screw and carburetor. Take some carburetor cleaner and spray the end of the screw clean (notice how black it is in the picture above) and spray the the hole where the screw once was (give it a good spraying).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWsdpp-lgMHsIcPRVKyZrg-J6hQ_Z4KZjiFxfumVr2ugtchZr18yxJH7t69SvUNpkNT_8PcNZARL_zN6Ir_gInuj8kZXqt8_MDqK4wmNinwoRCc27sD7BcmcquvcNr1pkOCA-Axdn86KwE/s1600/IMG_2386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWsdpp-lgMHsIcPRVKyZrg-J6hQ_Z4KZjiFxfumVr2ugtchZr18yxJH7t69SvUNpkNT_8PcNZARL_zN6Ir_gInuj8kZXqt8_MDqK4wmNinwoRCc27sD7BcmcquvcNr1pkOCA-Axdn86KwE/s400/IMG_2386.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 3 - Spray clean. To help clear out the carburetor cleaner that was just applied, spray compressed air through the carburetor screw hole.<br />
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Step 4 - Screw in the screw. Screw in the screw all the way back in (until you feel resistance) and then loosen it back out based on the number of turns from step 1.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-32813317700146097522013-07-17T18:44:00.002-07:002013-07-17T18:44:29.766-07:00A New clutch<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Although the clutch appeared to be in good condition, we had purchased a 3-in-1 clutch kit (release bearing, clutch cover, and clutch disc) a while back and figured we would replace these parts while we had easy access to them. Installing a new clutch was pretty straight forward and replacing the release bearing was also straight forward after Fred realized he had a few pullers stowed away in a box in the garage. </div>
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To replace the release bearing in the bell housing, the release bearing mounting hub was removed from the clutch lever and a puller was used to separate the release bearing from the release bearing mounting hub. The trick to using the puller was putting the unit in the vice and placing a socket inside the bearing (socket diameter was smaller than the bearing but larger than the mounting hub diameter). The socket provided something for the puller shaft to press against. (Sorry, I forgot to take pictures of this.)</div>
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To remove the clutch cover and clutch disc, 6 bolts were unscrewed from the clutch cover and the whole unit came off.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqAXhEN3kDXB4ArIYL0XeCky8ulJyKiOazne9yTUJDjriRs_6Xsw7TA966bvztOTtV0z6z9r8tm2TWv3eg3wiePTKOCT3Fs330PVGblrCmZjlWCLIET42aCeZxr4YaOv1GfObO5ksy25d/s1600/IMG_2370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqAXhEN3kDXB4ArIYL0XeCky8ulJyKiOazne9yTUJDjriRs_6Xsw7TA966bvztOTtV0z6z9r8tm2TWv3eg3wiePTKOCT3Fs330PVGblrCmZjlWCLIET42aCeZxr4YaOv1GfObO5ksy25d/s320/IMG_2370.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Replacing was the opposite of removing, but before tightening the bolts down, we had to make sure the clutch was aligned. To do this, Victoria British sells an alignment tool that is a shortened model of the transmission input shaft. You put the tool through the center of the clutch and make sure everything aligns accordingly before tightening down the bolts to spec....<br />
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...but since I did not get the alignment tool (I thought I purchased one, but actually did not), we used the old fashioned method. We removed the bell housing from the transmission and Chris put the transmission shaft through the clutch and held up the transmission while I tightened down the bolts. Removing the bell housing was a necessary step so that we could get access to the clutch cover bolts while the transmission shaft was put in place for alignment.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGzsvr4ma75cM9_We8lwXBhT4GMLUnsXAFMBiJyp2FlN_T6XtMsG41eOVIja-EUZ0J6Zru9VZIzQhAAlqHTeiIbv1SklKbKpQqrcaLSqMKJaBi6BU2WKoYdq06zrlrVi_WTB1xrNS3WIM7/s1600/IMG_2372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGzsvr4ma75cM9_We8lwXBhT4GMLUnsXAFMBiJyp2FlN_T6XtMsG41eOVIja-EUZ0J6Zru9VZIzQhAAlqHTeiIbv1SklKbKpQqrcaLSqMKJaBi6BU2WKoYdq06zrlrVi_WTB1xrNS3WIM7/s320/IMG_2372.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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...nice, shiny new clutch cover and disc.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-29035005259364385212013-07-07T17:15:00.000-07:002013-07-07T17:15:17.578-07:00Checking the Oil Pump and Valve Train<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With the oil filter in place, we could now add some oil and give the engine a few spins. The main reason for doing this was to make sure the oil pump was circulating the oil properly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT5B29URe0IVCqE8ZQuXS7OeIj6G1S3qix0v0sAtaspCkRMgJeXhvIP2SDs5y-PmsgHWNUy-thsiyCupDCBkj1FAKUBPuNFGzo9D3sEHjzwgAM8HI42ETjlzFdEqsOZE86hgsEfJQ1Ig-6/s1600/IMG_2348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT5B29URe0IVCqE8ZQuXS7OeIj6G1S3qix0v0sAtaspCkRMgJeXhvIP2SDs5y-PmsgHWNUy-thsiyCupDCBkj1FAKUBPuNFGzo9D3sEHjzwgAM8HI42ETjlzFdEqsOZE86hgsEfJQ1Ig-6/s320/IMG_2348.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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After filling the engine up with oil so that the oil level read at least "min" on the dipstick, we jumped the starter to Chris' truck battery and let the engine spin a bit. Soon we realized that the oil pressure switch was not present and oil would spurt out this hole while the engine was running. (I wish I had gotten a video of this.) As a quick fix to this problem, Fred plugged up the hole with a #2 pink pencil. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatxV491aAvSlRSSiRrVxt-twfPMpv2rbYf6JBghrVI69aRgAw6w6vgKWnqxs3i1ZIrFaUi4fOD0Dw1C0M_6uS81sbZWRFFKa_Ugttpupu-_f4LzrnbkJBNf-dfnkwAoEVZhgDPEjXGpL1/s1600/IMG_2352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatxV491aAvSlRSSiRrVxt-twfPMpv2rbYf6JBghrVI69aRgAw6w6vgKWnqxs3i1ZIrFaUi4fOD0Dw1C0M_6uS81sbZWRFFKa_Ugttpupu-_f4LzrnbkJBNf-dfnkwAoEVZhgDPEjXGpL1/s320/IMG_2352.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oops...need to plug up this hole.</td></tr>
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In the picture below, you can just see oil start to spurt through the rocker assembly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5-h-R5DJIbQrfmPIZgvX0XOgHhWrQHrkeZiJxU2WtbtWhkxzrrkvErqIFpSo0vMA9Oeca85Eu-y8LEKw3BvZRJBw9HSVudO82j3GF5nwpvfJanepVozjh09kIxQKirBFixATci0To54F/s1600/IMG_2357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5-h-R5DJIbQrfmPIZgvX0XOgHhWrQHrkeZiJxU2WtbtWhkxzrrkvErqIFpSo0vMA9Oeca85Eu-y8LEKw3BvZRJBw9HSVudO82j3GF5nwpvfJanepVozjh09kIxQKirBFixATci0To54F/s320/IMG_2357.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The engine in action...</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ol9Lj2-tKE8?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-63192153483972972562013-06-26T19:44:00.001-07:002013-07-07T17:15:41.538-07:00Oil Filter Fiasco<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Maybe "fiasco" is a bit dramatic, but the oil filter replacement ended up taking an hour, which is about 55 minutes longer than what it should have been.</div>
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To start, the oil filter was removed using an oil filter strap wrench...straightforward - no issues here.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqKpLz3qSDpuxuQJ-3kNs263ObWo-HkGTlCi2H9PfmO7FlL-gXQxkG__sfxaLUGVBMUNYPiLKIs2xxs8IcD4TCUJBj6aCWHZoQ_ZOpB57Mtp3BvQXA2CEKtZbRiLlK2TFv8vwnXVfI1UsB/s1600/IMG_2318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqKpLz3qSDpuxuQJ-3kNs263ObWo-HkGTlCi2H9PfmO7FlL-gXQxkG__sfxaLUGVBMUNYPiLKIs2xxs8IcD4TCUJBj6aCWHZoQ_ZOpB57Mtp3BvQXA2CEKtZbRiLlK2TFv8vwnXVfI1UsB/s320/IMG_2318.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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When we went to put on the new oil filter, we noticed that it did not have a screw mount to attach to the engine. (See below, parts don't fit.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhejPmQe_StGC9ogwgKeIcU7ywOFvTib9drYKukGJm1ub9jFsYciwV5TjDm5nXvr7yFN5MMvJERX0tJ1NX4O7PVB_LIa9epEw6Z5zTfnybzIErkyDgMHwd9dCBeSunqyuCSID7T3Rhbo2SM/s1600/IMG_2342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhejPmQe_StGC9ogwgKeIcU7ywOFvTib9drYKukGJm1ub9jFsYciwV5TjDm5nXvr7yFN5MMvJERX0tJ1NX4O7PVB_LIa9epEw6Z5zTfnybzIErkyDgMHwd9dCBeSunqyuCSID7T3Rhbo2SM/s320/IMG_2342.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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Then we thought, "Well, maybe we needed to remove the screw from the old filter." So Fred tried freeing the screw using the 2-nut removal technique. <br />
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No luck here, so maybe some better access to the oil filter is needed. To do this, Fred sawed off the oil filter with a circular saw.<br />
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Still no luck removing the screw, so a little heat action was applied to see if this would help loosen the screw.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8crRitdh2QGyO3j84QSOVLF7L7kcLQa2E2y_tezhSPyd9CRnmQ94gGS70UFj4ECvUD0SLM-VcT1F8TnSLoWBE0quZdpjI6A5FKuTArv1Wyo8h5CXbNkVC-zRXdFRmEnEZyxFW5RalKAQz/s1600/IMG_2336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8crRitdh2QGyO3j84QSOVLF7L7kcLQa2E2y_tezhSPyd9CRnmQ94gGS70UFj4ECvUD0SLM-VcT1F8TnSLoWBE0quZdpjI6A5FKuTArv1Wyo8h5CXbNkVC-zRXdFRmEnEZyxFW5RalKAQz/s320/IMG_2336.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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Being an oil filter, there was some oil leftover and this caught fire. (we put out the fire in the nearby water bucket)<br />
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What finally did the trick was grinding the screw out from the inside of the oil filter and then using a hammer to tap it out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxux9ImIdJW0CX3V5uBbHeGxUBQv-_iSgk0oo6ISJBPwddytxznO1adaUKdy31tnmZe954gHRJBOZu8Q_1xE-abBYEZnb6dHOJ_dVaxhRpt2q5dEI-koD9noYkOeOYjVdXtqtWBFCFX-00/s1600/IMG_2341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxux9ImIdJW0CX3V5uBbHeGxUBQv-_iSgk0oo6ISJBPwddytxznO1adaUKdy31tnmZe954gHRJBOZu8Q_1xE-abBYEZnb6dHOJ_dVaxhRpt2q5dEI-koD9noYkOeOYjVdXtqtWBFCFX-00/s320/IMG_2341.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally removed</td></tr>
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While Chris and Fred were examining how to attach the newly freed screw and whether or not the threads survived the extraction process, I decided to review the parts I had bought for this trip to New York - some manifold clamps, gaskets, a fan belt... Then I took a closer look at the fan belt to read the packaging information and then I hear "clink clink clink" (the sound of metal falling onto the floor).</div>
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Hmm...what's this that fell out of the fan belt? (I asked myself) It turns out that I had ordered an oil filter adapter screw but that it had gotten stuck during shipping inside the fan belt packaging! We had the part all along!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3YVKA2kaK8jBhM6_bRH1wi0Jnk0nJybqm-2os6wMy6TzScozLkQMQgC7Lfb4nbo2aEpJSlSRMHbQ19VkrObOiUwwJxct-J2RNcUGtD3MKNlZyjXHp82r9ZEUec8uN8TMVdNlfyoH3vDYd/s1600/IMG_2344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3YVKA2kaK8jBhM6_bRH1wi0Jnk0nJybqm-2os6wMy6TzScozLkQMQgC7Lfb4nbo2aEpJSlSRMHbQ19VkrObOiUwwJxct-J2RNcUGtD3MKNlZyjXHp82r9ZEUec8uN8TMVdNlfyoH3vDYd/s320/IMG_2344.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The oil filter (left) and critical part to oil filter installation (right)</td></tr>
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With this new screw in hand, the oil filter installation took less than 1 minute to screw on...but with the time spent trying to salvage the old screw mount, we spent about an hour trying to install the oil filter. This was not one of our finer moments of the weekend, but I do need to applaud our determination to make things work and thank Fred for his patience and hard work.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-33075402315347042422013-06-25T18:52:00.003-07:002013-06-25T18:57:37.242-07:00Back to New YorkWe went back to New York this past weekend to finish restoration of the engine. First thing we tackled was replacing the engine head back in place and adjusting the valve spacing (rocker arm clearance), but before doing this, we marked the crankshaft pulley where pistons 2 and 3 were at top dead center (the pulley already had a marking for where pistons 1 and 4 were at top dead center; the marking for pistons 2 and 3 was opposite of 1 and 4). (These markings will be used later).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0YBChk6GIxmguXDe0ndlbGmgJJ-6Qg9DCy-78VrYwSOQP5XAYxD_w2KXMZGfakjt6ECnrLOFb0eSo265vRLFsRSc2ISg1EK1bLCYqASuAT-SytjrRJX3kzN4C6sC4c9hrBqwlbqLABN7N/s1600/IMG_2343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0YBChk6GIxmguXDe0ndlbGmgJJ-6Qg9DCy-78VrYwSOQP5XAYxD_w2KXMZGfakjt6ECnrLOFb0eSo265vRLFsRSc2ISg1EK1bLCYqASuAT-SytjrRJX3kzN4C6sC4c9hrBqwlbqLABN7N/s320/IMG_2343.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crankshaft pulley marking</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdziU8EWMQWZYF9CQioZWqZB48xdzcnuvcMpzd9k85Mrvobt72RdrE23DfTfF99TgvQkXpbaXVOOAxbRKvfOYgwUFcV09zyoTBAgiQVbXRMhT-gkM4rCAEUU_a2syCnNRqNI3qcrHldVWK/s1600/IMG_2304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdziU8EWMQWZYF9CQioZWqZB48xdzcnuvcMpzd9k85Mrvobt72RdrE23DfTfF99TgvQkXpbaXVOOAxbRKvfOYgwUFcV09zyoTBAgiQVbXRMhT-gkM4rCAEUU_a2syCnNRqNI3qcrHldVWK/s320/IMG_2304.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dropping the rocker shaft in place</td></tr>
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After tightening everything down to the torque spec, the next step was to check the valve spacing clearance. To do this, we rotated the flywheel to get the pistons adjusted at top dead center of the compression cycle (markings from the step above helped here). Then the valve spacings of the top dead center cylinders were adjusted to spec.<br />
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A feeler gauge blade of .010" (the Haynes manual spec for valve clearance) was slid into the spacing and the individual rocker arms were adjusted by tightening the ball pin. This was repeated 8 times for each rocker arm (flywheel rotation was done according to which valves we were working on). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw_C8_xcFTH2cZux6cra-fNi-i00k-LWunWkhoZwVokcdVx_JssIAyn3uuerfGFsPK578CDDw_KA5JCsJA0H4UF1q72k3xXLkgsIuRiNRYVbMNxA3XhmE6Lw5ju5bKVztD-iUVedAin9eb/s1600/IMG_2315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw_C8_xcFTH2cZux6cra-fNi-i00k-LWunWkhoZwVokcdVx_JssIAyn3uuerfGFsPK578CDDw_KA5JCsJA0H4UF1q72k3xXLkgsIuRiNRYVbMNxA3XhmE6Lw5ju5bKVztD-iUVedAin9eb/s320/IMG_2315.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adjusting the valve spacing</td></tr>
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Next up, we checked the oil pump circulation and that required installing a new oil filter first. This turned out to be more of an ordeal than it should have been...so I will save this for a separate post.<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-2338174506942322942013-06-11T19:23:00.004-07:002013-06-11T19:23:32.826-07:00Part 10: Re-installing the Pistons<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieygKvaeOW5U37TLuHv1ck-VUkdfaJabeQsh6ASFZXDSq9BASWZQfhZe4z2SVuZ4T1Yc0Xy1nXloZKohpxCsm7w1aFsNp4065VDvOp0BNBZ1Ztljkdna3_zRee_MGv6HwW0jEwnePkzPCq/s1600/IMG_2251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieygKvaeOW5U37TLuHv1ck-VUkdfaJabeQsh6ASFZXDSq9BASWZQfhZe4z2SVuZ4T1Yc0Xy1nXloZKohpxCsm7w1aFsNp4065VDvOp0BNBZ1Ztljkdna3_zRee_MGv6HwW0jEwnePkzPCq/s320/IMG_2251.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
To install pistons, a ratchet type piston ring compressor was needed. Since the rings were brand new, the rings stuck out of the pistons a bit. The ring compressor wraps around the piston and squeezes the rings into place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYCzfL_nTAwe2oPCUe1au05QjRwUfV2c5FbKcE_Ja1te_JDglpZhYoagYXz8cGLuB8Hi_b_ZUzMtOmIf1UN_MB4VVzbnEv_kpgYewaSQsuUnzy2YN3cVkKNDMIXIivC9SWsAjXECsRXVD/s1600/IMG_2259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGYCzfL_nTAwe2oPCUe1au05QjRwUfV2c5FbKcE_Ja1te_JDglpZhYoagYXz8cGLuB8Hi_b_ZUzMtOmIf1UN_MB4VVzbnEv_kpgYewaSQsuUnzy2YN3cVkKNDMIXIivC9SWsAjXECsRXVD/s320/IMG_2259.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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But first we dunked the piston in engine oil, to make it was properly lubed before installing (oil was also squirted onto the cylinder walls). Then the piston compressor was attached to the piston and the piston was positioned over the cylinder (make sure the arrow on top of the piston points to the front/fan of the engine - piston installation direction matters). The wooden end of a hammer was used tap the piston back into the engine.<br />
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One thing to note...make sure the piston compressor bottom lines up flushed with the piston bottom. In our first few attempts, the compressor was not perfectly aligned and the ring would slip out underneath before we could push the piston through the engine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbdMRvrVhy_FgSHadQ1bTN2WaUp-cQmup8ENWsTPUzhhIni9lwYTZxviIs4Z_Wm92Xd9qwG9lvmmQI7hwUBUQg9Vl4Xi97xMhYsxJ-fq-DtvYtMpADaWjX1MBZOPbWFwFF5RjiixjWjs4d/s1600/IMG_2262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbdMRvrVhy_FgSHadQ1bTN2WaUp-cQmup8ENWsTPUzhhIni9lwYTZxviIs4Z_Wm92Xd9qwG9lvmmQI7hwUBUQg9Vl4Xi97xMhYsxJ-fq-DtvYtMpADaWjX1MBZOPbWFwFF5RjiixjWjs4d/s320/IMG_2262.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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To install the pistons we had to turn the engine on the side to reattach the connecting rods. The big-end bolts that held the connecting rods in place needed to be torqued to 40 lbf ft. Cylinders 1 and 4 could be installed at the same time since they rotated on the same crank shaft cycle and cylinders 2 and 3 could be installed together on the opposite cycle of the cam shaft (turning the fly wheel rotated the cycle and raised and lowered the pistons).<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_0jRMZAoYV9qSOHFymuz-vzOz_b8dEj3dn4vt2vbUMuSEf0NdHl_jk6JksMfTiJG_P85EAZMtGdnSGwq-AuYmxesMv38Gz9c7SmYjcd4O2m_HzL0w9D1NY8zJyFqQXZPT8ma3V4MPvM0e/s1600/IMG_2268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_0jRMZAoYV9qSOHFymuz-vzOz_b8dEj3dn4vt2vbUMuSEf0NdHl_jk6JksMfTiJG_P85EAZMtGdnSGwq-AuYmxesMv38Gz9c7SmYjcd4O2m_HzL0w9D1NY8zJyFqQXZPT8ma3V4MPvM0e/s320/IMG_2268.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The dogs are helping Chris and Fred with piston installation.<br />
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This pretty much wrapped up a weekend worth of engine rebuilding. After the pistons were re-installed, the oil pan was attached and that's how we left for the weekend. It took 2.5 days (1 day = 9AM - 5PM with a break forlunch) of effort amongst 3 people to get to this point. Fred's assistance with this really sped things up with his wealth of knowledge, tools, and everything on hand and ready to go. We'll be back to New York mid-summer to finish the rest of the engine restoration.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-92072281580169376092013-06-11T19:10:00.001-07:002013-06-11T19:20:43.670-07:00Part 9: The Mystery Behind the 3rd Cylinder Has Been Solved!!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Back in August 2010, I had posted the results of our compression testing. No matter what we did, the 3rd cylinder always reported abnormal results. Well, I am pleased to announce that we believe we know what the cause is...the top piston ring of piston 3 was stuck. </div>
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Removing the piston rings on the first pistons were pretty straight forward. Dig you nails into the gap and pry off the ring. With the 3rd piston, however, the top ring was stuck in its groove. The ring would not spin in the groove or dislodge easily (other rings moved freely in the groove). It took Fred a while to finally pry it loose.</div>
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The guess (not an expert opinion) was that the stuck ring caused the 3rd cylinder/piston to not have good compression. (The stuck ring impacted the travel of the piston in the cylinder.)</div>
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After removing the rings, we snapped a few old rings in half and use these as a tool to scrape out carbon residue built up in the ring grooves. The piston heads then went through some wire brushing to make everything nice and clean before installing new rings. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4hil0hmoKfmnv-NifXSO0CBTgr8KljICj1nDapb_tULTZ7Z2eGo7Da_1Jt1rcaSsJvbNTkRdqGJ9oWX1dKrNwgc-43Li5MSDHdqiwbTpaI6viMasOZhj8rpgSQf_ik7v2ochtbJ96FEM/s1600/IMG_2249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4hil0hmoKfmnv-NifXSO0CBTgr8KljICj1nDapb_tULTZ7Z2eGo7Da_1Jt1rcaSsJvbNTkRdqGJ9oWX1dKrNwgc-43Li5MSDHdqiwbTpaI6viMasOZhj8rpgSQf_ik7v2ochtbJ96FEM/s320/IMG_2249.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For the bottom ring, installation order matters. The waffle ring is installed first and then the top and bottom rings are installed. (There are slight grooves in the waffle ring that the outer rings sit in.) This is useful to keep in mind when removing the bottom ring as well - take the outer rings off first.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6skf20Mv_z3id7GEsyebcaBqcx6HrVL40IZoGbdWOuknv8y0cytqzB52O2ujYIqHZeAHW4dOcAYr5oR6cfjtyS5PpIwuz-fdYb4S3zky-mbQNKkS3yiao8dSqBTPC6rKoqbed16FELCn/s1600/IMG_2250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6skf20Mv_z3id7GEsyebcaBqcx6HrVL40IZoGbdWOuknv8y0cytqzB52O2ujYIqHZeAHW4dOcAYr5oR6cfjtyS5PpIwuz-fdYb4S3zky-mbQNKkS3yiao8dSqBTPC6rKoqbed16FELCn/s320/IMG_2250.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like new...</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-5548201104793655212013-06-11T18:35:00.002-07:002013-06-11T18:35:31.157-07:00Part 8: Cylinder Honing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Smoothing the cylinder walls required two special tools that Fred had on hand. A ridge reamer was used to smooth out the ridge that formed at the top of the cylinder (the bottom of the cylinder had worn down from the piston rings leaving a ~1/4" at the top where the rings did not rub) and a cylinder honer was used to smooth the out the slight vertical grooves left behind by the old rings on the cylinder walls.</div>
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Before we took the pistons out, we did a bit of ridge reaming to scrape off the cylinder wall that had not worn away, but after removing the pistons, we found that we had not done enough ridge reaming and had to do a bit more (sometimes we alternated with the cylinder honing until we got just the right smoothness in the interior of the cylinder).</div>
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The ridge reamer was a metal contraption that had edges that would scrape along the interior of the cylinder walls. In the picture below, Chris is using a wrench to turn the ridge reamer inside the cylinder. Another bolt on the ridge reamer was used to adjust the diameter of the scrapers to fit just perfectly in the cylinder. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghmHXtk9t-Dj-DwuzDMAaQOAil70PYHiNmqnY7uiRQWZI5YmNMhf6CDc_YCptfNxNr5QfvsCtDj8FBkSCxr8W4dmp-wJYFnco2TyjaQhzvBRn9tIXRvzMOtJhnw7aaZiz9PRLxbhqOgY1N/s1600/IMG_2214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghmHXtk9t-Dj-DwuzDMAaQOAil70PYHiNmqnY7uiRQWZI5YmNMhf6CDc_YCptfNxNr5QfvsCtDj8FBkSCxr8W4dmp-wJYFnco2TyjaQhzvBRn9tIXRvzMOtJhnw7aaZiz9PRLxbhqOgY1N/s320/IMG_2214.JPG" title="ridge reamer" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cylinder honing involved attaching a 3-prong antenna like object to a drill. With some squirts of oil in the cylinder, the drill did all the work to smooth out the cylinder walls.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEsYmMkg5IIWBrw6yn3fKuUkabHJ_agi2hvr7HTxUKxFOS-ibEgHGftKGbU17181bcpD9zxIJhTiQ2KpTAEeRsSvAN3GrIFAqBlLRktwcFoAiTYRBI6knTyPmT_JfXY7SsUyjB8veYh_Xh/s1600/IMG_2239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEsYmMkg5IIWBrw6yn3fKuUkabHJ_agi2hvr7HTxUKxFOS-ibEgHGftKGbU17181bcpD9zxIJhTiQ2KpTAEeRsSvAN3GrIFAqBlLRktwcFoAiTYRBI6knTyPmT_JfXY7SsUyjB8veYh_Xh/s320/IMG_2239.JPG" title="cylinder honing" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fred honing the cylinder wall. If you look closely at the cylinder next to the one being worked on, you can see the ridge that had formed in the cylinder. The ridge reamer was used to smooth this out.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJUbf1H6O1WaBBm6ZAScyPSAK1OcVsb_UtLcwqTSnDHQB_ydvIXSlkFSsF5NBvTr0RHVE-fy46oc2B-Vmsxt_GU4MtcTDk_Ouzm7ljFhYDJejCRF_WATzA88skjZw6ZmygDm9NZyBS9jq/s1600/IMG_2243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJUbf1H6O1WaBBm6ZAScyPSAK1OcVsb_UtLcwqTSnDHQB_ydvIXSlkFSsF5NBvTr0RHVE-fy46oc2B-Vmsxt_GU4MtcTDk_Ouzm7ljFhYDJejCRF_WATzA88skjZw6ZmygDm9NZyBS9jq/s320/IMG_2243.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">In the original cylinder honing tool, the sanding pads were sanding stones. In these replacement pads, strips of sandpaper were adhered to flat stones - not as good.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZDtDyyFP1ARAvBDWuKtjfccLa5WBLE1POQzTqDCIhw_YgCQx0xHcNgpue7sWSnXqcoSWqqzMQjmBwhqrg6yHUID2KEQhAmoFFgR-emX6UjuuMM6ImiuyLTP5jVXvDzt7C7JGkIdRb071U/s1600/IMG_2246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZDtDyyFP1ARAvBDWuKtjfccLa5WBLE1POQzTqDCIhw_YgCQx0xHcNgpue7sWSnXqcoSWqqzMQjmBwhqrg6yHUID2KEQhAmoFFgR-emX6UjuuMM6ImiuyLTP5jVXvDzt7C7JGkIdRb071U/s320/IMG_2246.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Honed and reamed cylinders...gorgeous.</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-14908304624964739042013-06-04T17:42:00.003-07:002013-06-04T17:42:50.089-07:00Part 7: Piston Removal<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
To install the new piston rings we had purchased, we had to undo the bolts that attached the connecting rods to the crankshaft. Nothing too difficult here... just elbow grease which Chris is providing. I was on picture duty for any times where my help was not needed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSk-_ag7i8IpkU_rqV0sG1HTnOclxd94pi5DZURHVHV8GooTPkQkqDr_roLx1TDMBkWT3hkMiSDZ6G3ub2Kktoy9WARvlrV37Q1nGxZ9bqQO-AkWp_Qq2J8lsEh2b-UFjzM2x3QTkKNOiN/s1600/IMG_2234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSk-_ag7i8IpkU_rqV0sG1HTnOclxd94pi5DZURHVHV8GooTPkQkqDr_roLx1TDMBkWT3hkMiSDZ6G3ub2Kktoy9WARvlrV37Q1nGxZ9bqQO-AkWp_Qq2J8lsEh2b-UFjzM2x3QTkKNOiN/s320/IMG_2234.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The picture below shows the 4 pistons and connecting rods that we had removed. There is masking tape on the connecting rods to indicate which cylinder the pistons came from (1 = towards the front of the car and 4 = piston nearest the transmission). It turns out we did not need to do this in the end, because if you look carefully on the connecting rods there are cylinder numbers hand-etched into the metal, using the same numbering that we had applied above (1 through 4).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7qa8UDi20McYcUpfiPJ04_XkvqgHZHo17oS2MdEwYJI9wqBDxmCZYbnvWRaz83p-Sl_uqS25_InFcUor54kRGnLq48M5aZcwvebquADs6hoxxXRu2T88ErcJ0TdAF54_jP8OGlytsM1d/s1600/IMG_2247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL7qa8UDi20McYcUpfiPJ04_XkvqgHZHo17oS2MdEwYJI9wqBDxmCZYbnvWRaz83p-Sl_uqS25_InFcUor54kRGnLq48M5aZcwvebquADs6hoxxXRu2T88ErcJ0TdAF54_jP8OGlytsM1d/s320/IMG_2247.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-15486043257295416022013-06-04T17:37:00.001-07:002013-06-04T17:37:16.226-07:00Part 6: Oil Pan Removal and the Undersides<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It was good thing we did some of the engine work outside and used a dolly to move the engine between the shop and outside, because here in this picture, the tilting of the engine caused fluids to spill out. The dolly was a wooden dolly that Fred had built with spare wheels and we screwed some L-shaped pieces of wood together to snuggly hold the engine.</div>
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The bolts for the oil pan came out easily like most of the bolts on the engine. In the picture below, Chris is prying the oil pan off by breaking the gasket seal.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVD5A5S8QDLJCpBKjGJ9bSOfnlLCduY-c2A61tYgyfgx3fVfCudrCjMO5xcRaNbwX_mw3P__X6y2BgJm31SPkWsvkcX45WRbojdOYOaTc5mFX4tgAULb324Xc_nRg9DGUzQRWtcPL06uQ/s1600/IMG_2224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVD5A5S8QDLJCpBKjGJ9bSOfnlLCduY-c2A61tYgyfgx3fVfCudrCjMO5xcRaNbwX_mw3P__X6y2BgJm31SPkWsvkcX45WRbojdOYOaTc5mFX4tgAULb324Xc_nRg9DGUzQRWtcPL06uQ/s320/IMG_2224.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It's hard to tell in this picture but there is a 1/4" layer of oil sludge at the bottom of the oil pan.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Y_x8xq6e5diBtzLwct8qvFelf3-ol7oH1yet-uor6Moq0jfkhZGLlS2pjFUrd239XF2g6sdi4xGw5bwLmR99gJrUQn6321DpOAXr7P4BbkrAQSFUiYw08t-EIJTQ4EbtYGfqPF8lXqLO/s1600/IMG_2226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Y_x8xq6e5diBtzLwct8qvFelf3-ol7oH1yet-uor6Moq0jfkhZGLlS2pjFUrd239XF2g6sdi4xGw5bwLmR99gJrUQn6321DpOAXr7P4BbkrAQSFUiYw08t-EIJTQ4EbtYGfqPF8lXqLO/s320/IMG_2226.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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A look at the underside of the engine. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf9wZBzBQDhePvxAQKby_270CFhFUxMNCYCWNi0ZQVpyvX1bRYYWfzx1nBaoqz8Eaubm3gLQNdNBofKQJUqodFb_YpvjgXF9UgvX4HEMJheU_uK7GHq4tLKq44ScldErHSeMJ37aaRrVTg/s1600/IMG_2230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf9wZBzBQDhePvxAQKby_270CFhFUxMNCYCWNi0ZQVpyvX1bRYYWfzx1nBaoqz8Eaubm3gLQNdNBofKQJUqodFb_YpvjgXF9UgvX4HEMJheU_uK7GHq4tLKq44ScldErHSeMJ37aaRrVTg/s320/IMG_2230.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-26085861771216815832013-06-02T19:17:00.001-07:002013-06-02T19:17:32.816-07:00Part 5: Engine Block Cleaning<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Engine restoration is a dirty job. We all wore gloves to keep our hands clean whenever possible (sometimes it was just much easier to do it bare hands), but by the end of the long Memorial Day weekend, we were dirty. I was finding grease spots on me for at least 2 days afterwards and our work clothes were completely covered in grease/oil/etc that covered and were still inside the engine. We had not drained the oil completely and oil would come out through other holes other than the oil drain plug, and we forgotten to drain the antifreeze from the engine so that left a big mess when we tilted the engine on the side to get a better angle on things. The water pump turned into a coolant fountain. All were cleaned up with sawdust and swept away...messy messy.</div>
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Engine block cleaning itself required more of the same wire brush/kerosene/hose down/air spray cleaning technique that was used on the engine head. Before hosing down, we covered the top with plastic and tied it down to keep any debris from getting inside the block. We should have tied down the plastic more securely in hindsight as the pressure from the air spray blew some water underneath the plastic.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVwVxbdkDtHdT2TO3GwPSC6lhRKt0mAhcTpkYrj0GN7d8D6LbCZTrfyHfLLmGPhkOLDUaN__FNWLvJcVWpGlQpFSOl3LC-YQqhfE85V-fsZ0hO-OEaPB1dA2a_xs1v_ZSZ2u_E5YLc3r9I/s1600/IMG_2194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVwVxbdkDtHdT2TO3GwPSC6lhRKt0mAhcTpkYrj0GN7d8D6LbCZTrfyHfLLmGPhkOLDUaN__FNWLvJcVWpGlQpFSOl3LC-YQqhfE85V-fsZ0hO-OEaPB1dA2a_xs1v_ZSZ2u_E5YLc3r9I/s320/IMG_2194.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSywlO27dKUByMzaVJKPi6pdYe4H69e7kufdSwhm4J5SHMdLPEee-Ag8bPy9ZPwfuCuAW6t4WqHdxPvVEMUnPJk2KxYxxt3inMboknqgFvpEXbRTuCJ94Ta-RXc4qcybELEpejCXoioyc/s1600/IMG_2203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSywlO27dKUByMzaVJKPi6pdYe4H69e7kufdSwhm4J5SHMdLPEee-Ag8bPy9ZPwfuCuAW6t4WqHdxPvVEMUnPJk2KxYxxt3inMboknqgFvpEXbRTuCJ94Ta-RXc4qcybELEpejCXoioyc/s320/IMG_2203.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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A cleaned engine block... We plan to spray paint it later to make it really stand out after all the effort we have put into restoring it, but that will be on the next visit back to New York.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdUPLvFzr3ZV7hJOP2MmuaSJM5M36Nih7vNUBpyJcXdhoe02bL0OwMot6ZjKV3DyYr7QrccspSvWuSn2dSMKJzFULP2liUIHkaZT5eEFpK8DXytu74FbdV16S1jwDzq4tBOTSf5vBZ6wxo/s1600/IMG_2204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdUPLvFzr3ZV7hJOP2MmuaSJM5M36Nih7vNUBpyJcXdhoe02bL0OwMot6ZjKV3DyYr7QrccspSvWuSn2dSMKJzFULP2liUIHkaZT5eEFpK8DXytu74FbdV16S1jwDzq4tBOTSf5vBZ6wxo/s320/IMG_2204.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-10386216822285080822013-06-02T18:57:00.001-07:002013-06-02T19:06:32.505-07:00Part 4: Reseating the Valves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It took a while to get the engine out of the truck and prep for restoration. After that effort, engine head disassembling and valve grinding took us to the end of a full day of restoration (9 AM to 5 PM with a break for lunch).</div>
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On the morning of day 2, we started by reseating the valves. Reseating the valves was similar to removal of valves, but we found some other tools to work better for installation than the tools used for removal. A box wrench, flat head screw driver, and 2 pairs of hands were all that were needed to replace the valves and reseat the springs. Using the closed end of the box wrench, Chris would compress the spring while I moved the valve keepers in place with the screw driver.</div>
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Below is a picture of the finished engine head after cleaning, grinding, and reseating valves. I thought it came out pretty well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQfLpwxO1J4hor3hJ_rz39U2i3XNxC4WVSO2V9GYmy2RhUbqBhDmTH9aqZsRs0sOZtaG3htlKGcmh76ilfdfh91n7uUS4fI3aIQowwSpyx290DA7bfsG7dt6B_TvSPhXNnDt8BQfsorHN/s1600/IMG_2198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQfLpwxO1J4hor3hJ_rz39U2i3XNxC4WVSO2V9GYmy2RhUbqBhDmTH9aqZsRs0sOZtaG3htlKGcmh76ilfdfh91n7uUS4fI3aIQowwSpyx290DA7bfsG7dt6B_TvSPhXNnDt8BQfsorHN/s320/IMG_2198.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Up next... the engine block.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-70879838103295006742013-05-29T18:58:00.004-07:002013-05-29T18:58:49.524-07:00Part 3: Valve grinding<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Chris and I had visited Fred many times before and he always had this contraption in the basement next to his dryer that had all these levers and knobs. Turns out this tool was to grind engine valves and he had picked it up decades ago for $50 at a garage sale. </div>
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Fred refinishing the valves with the valve grinder.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzLSngBd0Zs5RM9Ixh72Aiu-skiAdsXizRPCHUCuL_NaRNHjQnENVqUf78HErKR6M3Xi3KGcOlNGgRYRNf_AdZj8PbxdxZqZAOrx9VfkLopdMgCoCNQZg5R5SD_27gGAe8-RHY9ZAu1n3i/s1600/IMG_2177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzLSngBd0Zs5RM9Ixh72Aiu-skiAdsXizRPCHUCuL_NaRNHjQnENVqUf78HErKR6M3Xi3KGcOlNGgRYRNf_AdZj8PbxdxZqZAOrx9VfkLopdMgCoCNQZg5R5SD_27gGAe8-RHY9ZAu1n3i/s320/IMG_2177.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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The valve on left had recently been cleaned ground smooth. The valve on the right had only been wire brushed clean.<br />
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After all the valves were ground smooth the next step was to make sure the valves sealed properly in the engine head. To do this, we applied a bit of valve grinding compound onto the valve, seated the valve in the engine and attached a drill to the end of the valve and drilled/smoothed the valve in place. Fred did the first valve below and then let us do the remaining seven.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi01LgfeDokVfrUSndYMY5EsmlCRIJdxhjVOCEMUuX-O3qD3kb81VHwQMevC8XnU1rzwQAUhoAEjHdRlB4EqOZ0fPVnBIsxHUTCtB7UtxlVGukuMxZM8sRyj48T1QNa7Y6oACwNeUtQvG1V/s1600/IMG_2181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi01LgfeDokVfrUSndYMY5EsmlCRIJdxhjVOCEMUuX-O3qD3kb81VHwQMevC8XnU1rzwQAUhoAEjHdRlB4EqOZ0fPVnBIsxHUTCtB7UtxlVGukuMxZM8sRyj48T1QNa7Y6oACwNeUtQvG1V/s320/IMG_2181.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-19307328270250261522013-05-29T18:41:00.001-07:002013-05-29T19:58:59.894-07:00Part 2: Engine Head Restoration<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Before restoring the engine head, we had to remove the valves and springs. We found that the best way to do this was with a giant fork to press down on the springs. A socket was placed underneath the engine head (under the valve), to keep the valve up when the spring was pressed down. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6p1Cm4lEmNqCz-AxzEZHRaQeN_fyPADBzCchMnl1pB5FyQmo74b9i1y9d9RS2t1InpW881f0gyEbjPdsFeE6qOmVt-6e07YWmmwEY2oDc2wYvpTljnDhHwus0tsWei9_NCKlN5D08wkA/s1600/IMG_2141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6p1Cm4lEmNqCz-AxzEZHRaQeN_fyPADBzCchMnl1pB5FyQmo74b9i1y9d9RS2t1InpW881f0gyEbjPdsFeE6qOmVt-6e07YWmmwEY2oDc2wYvpTljnDhHwus0tsWei9_NCKlN5D08wkA/s320/IMG_2141.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The engine head with the push rods, valves, and springs removed. If you look towards the back of the picture, you can see the push rods and valves placed in a box that indicates which exact hole the rod/valve came from.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8EKOdeuuj_eDtexEjOiAQed69QieLET316OvqgRvHgTKC1TzSGc6GqN9ZpiptiZHSR88VrGUZDybxYoPtDa8plMnCyMg7XKdGZy8aC8mtZqprmBPtJ66XP1llKquXElujmkOhuzQOwh95/s1600/IMG_2150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8EKOdeuuj_eDtexEjOiAQed69QieLET316OvqgRvHgTKC1TzSGc6GqN9ZpiptiZHSR88VrGUZDybxYoPtDa8plMnCyMg7XKdGZy8aC8mtZqprmBPtJ66XP1llKquXElujmkOhuzQOwh95/s320/IMG_2150.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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Chris and Fred cleaning the valves with a spinning wire wheel that had Fred rigged up to an old motor (the Ford Model T is in the foreground).<br />
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Cleaning the engine head... Fred's preferred method of cleaning was: step 1) wire brush as much gunk off as possible; step 2) brush on kerosene to clean off any remaining grease; step 3) spray off the kerosene and any remnants with water from a pressured hose; and step 4) use compressed air to dry and spray off remaining water and gunk.<br />
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The final product - one cleaned engine head...<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-91973986784887706452013-05-29T18:09:00.000-07:002013-05-29T18:09:10.150-07:00Part 1: Engine dismantlingFirst...the before picture:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW0c-u3DwMCHtj7oonjMpCe7qgH80wvm3iZXHGQekT1cc3unrToZ1qEaAE2ADUpG0omo7V_Tyxtz_jKP5XWbR3f1v13V_kfYcVXEtI9k3ezConMLJXfmXpB0ke6aw0M9O-x0XTrXplnLPc/s1600/IMG_2080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW0c-u3DwMCHtj7oonjMpCe7qgH80wvm3iZXHGQekT1cc3unrToZ1qEaAE2ADUpG0omo7V_Tyxtz_jKP5XWbR3f1v13V_kfYcVXEtI9k3ezConMLJXfmXpB0ke6aw0M9O-x0XTrXplnLPc/s320/IMG_2080.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now on to dismantling... While dismantling, we found a few unexpected discrepancies. For example, when taking off the exhaust manifold (step 1 of dismantling) we found one manifold clamp to be larger than the others and then a manifold clamp missing. We suspect that a clamp was lost along the way and that one of the bottom row clamps was swapped into the top row.<br />
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The engine with the valve cover removed:</div>
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If you haven't noticed yet, Chris did all the heavy lifting. In this picture, Chris is removing the engine head which is what we worked on next.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-16202494474038545022013-05-29T17:43:00.002-07:002013-05-29T19:57:47.006-07:00Engine Restoration UnderwayI've been terrible about working on the Triumph these past few months. Work had been crazy and any free time that I had was spent catching up on errands. Memorial Day weekend could not come soon enough and Chris and I spent the entire weekend in New York rebuilding the engine (not complete, but we got a lot done). These next few posts will all be about the engine. Hopefully, I'll make up for my delinquency in Triumph restoration and posts with lots of of pictures.<br />
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Why New York for restoration? Chris' great uncle Fred lives in New York. Fred is a machinist by trade and self-taught mechanic. Over the years, he has restored 3 1960s Ford Mustangs and a 1929? Ford Model T, maintained various daily drivers that he has owned, fixed motorcycles/mopeds/bicycles...the list goes on...</div>
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Now how to get to New York without the transmission and engine moving around in the truck bed? We built a wooden frame to fit in the truck with various wooden pieces to keep the engine and transmission snuggly in place. Although the engine is not super heavy (still heavy), we used the engine hoist to load the engine into the back of the truck and hauled the engine hoist all the way to New York with us to offload it in when we got there. <br />
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Next up the engine restoration...<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-66613387242784356232013-01-08T17:25:00.000-08:002013-01-08T17:25:12.432-08:00Installing the Rear Brakes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I thought I had remembered how I installed the rear brakes the first time, but after setting the rear cylinder retaining kit (U-shaped pieces that interlock) without putting the hand brake operating lever first, I realized that I had forgotten a few steps. The U-shaped pieces are tricky to unlock and so I thought I would document the rear installation brake this time just in case I ever need to refer to it in the future.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRT9FaU_IIRKqDGMYJHjGpSsFf-DH2R4hdPyXKfUoAlHJkV3XdpDAEsADka7k4nJRxAP6MfHFifPscNc9WRtWwM35f-i8rBODgcI1Xkv5v_rdlpDWo9k7mTgDpkKMTn0K8n7QlPNmjqnPW/s1600/rear_brake_tool_3+-+diagram.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRT9FaU_IIRKqDGMYJHjGpSsFf-DH2R4hdPyXKfUoAlHJkV3XdpDAEsADka7k4nJRxAP6MfHFifPscNc9WRtWwM35f-i8rBODgcI1Xkv5v_rdlpDWo9k7mTgDpkKMTn0K8n7QlPNmjqnPW/s320/rear_brake_tool_3+-+diagram.JPG" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installing the cylinder spring with the brake pliers</td></tr>
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Best method I know for installing the rear brake<br />
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1. Attach adjuster assembly unit<br />
2. Set hand brake operating lever (L-piece metal) in place underneath the rear wheel cylinder<br />
3. Attach rear wheel cylinder and use rear cylinder kit to lock the cylinder in place<br />
4. Hook adjuster spring onto the shoes (not attached yet) - this spring was tricky to attach with the brake shoes mounted; it was easier to attach with the shoes off<br />
Before continuing to step 5 - apply brake grease where needed.<br />
5. Have someone help get the brake shoes (with 1 spring attached) in place<br />
6. Install the shoe hold down kit (gold spring, pin, and clip) to set the springs<br />
7. Attach the cylinder spring<br />
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A while back, I had found brake installation tools on sale at Harbor Freight and bought them without realizing how to use them. Chris decided to bring these out for this installation and it turns out they were really useful (not 100% sure if we used it the right way, but anyhow).</div>
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There were 3 tools in the kit (1 straight metal tool, 1 plier with a hook on one end, and a tool with a screwdriver-like handle and socket-like head).</div>
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The brake pliers were helpful to grab the spring and hook the brake shoes in step 7 above (and picture above) and it turns out the brake screwdriver were useful to set the clips for the shoe holders. There was a visibility hole in the brake screwdriver that allowed you to align the clip and teeth on the ends to grab and set the clips in place (see pictures below). This worked much better than trying to use pliers to install the clips.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6653461372750416205.post-70647032318431259992013-01-07T19:11:00.003-08:002013-01-07T19:11:50.091-08:00I have no idea where these parts go......well, I have a vague guess now where some of these parts go, but when I first unwrapped the red chassis parts I was clueless where these parts came from. Since these parts were removed by the powdercoating shop, I did not have any close ups pictures and have not found any of the hundreds of pictures that I had taken to be of the correct angle to capture these parts. <div>
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My guess are that these parts are for the rear engine mount (this I already knew), connecting the exhaust somehow, body bolt mounts, and ???</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDjWg3bVFWVnxNNYAzHzcRzwK63jpiFer2cmpnO1vi5y39e80Ve1jsvT_1CvF8WWYZmuAgOEpqTnqTpy0faKABqb44L-MwkEGfeG77NV5ION1fNif3bQlqQFsYFyJj0tyWZpOGHWgg92yw/s1600/IMG_2745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDjWg3bVFWVnxNNYAzHzcRzwK63jpiFer2cmpnO1vi5y39e80Ve1jsvT_1CvF8WWYZmuAgOEpqTnqTpy0faKABqb44L-MwkEGfeG77NV5ION1fNif3bQlqQFsYFyJj0tyWZpOGHWgg92yw/s320/IMG_2745.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The two parts in the bottom right of the picture are the two <br />whose chassis location I am the least sure about.</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3